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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.